It is not exactly known when and where exactly the first perfumes appeared. However, it can be assumed that this happened thousands years ago because incense which became the foundation of modern perfumery was widely used in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt and Arabia. In ancient Egypt, aromas played a special role as they accompanied both living and deceased people in another world. No wonder that the secrets of creating the first incense should be sought in Egypt. Essential oils were an integral part of numerous rituals of ancient Egyptians when honors were given to the deities with fragrant incense during prayer. The use of aromas of myrrh, frankincense, turpentine resin were considered the best means for elevating the soul. The Egyptians even had a god of perfume, named Nefertum. He was also the god of the lotus blossom who originated from the waters at the very beginning of time.
In the temples of ancient Egypt, the aromas of myrrh, frankincense, cedar and cypress were especially revered. They were usually exhibited in vessels put on four sides of the building and symbolized healing, divinity, as well as protection from enemies and masculinity. Fragrant resins, wood, fruits, plants, spices in the form of balls, which were placed above the source of fire, were used to flavor the air. In the city of the Sun, the Heliotrope, rituals dedicated to the deity Ra were performed. Three kinds of incense were used here three times a day: amber resin at dawn, myrrh at noon , and a mixture of sixteen ingredients called “kufi” (which is translated from ancient Egyptian as “welcome to the gods” at sunset (Wilkinson, 1841). Among these 16 ingredients were myrrh, saffron, juniper, gorse, pistachios and fenugreek seeds and other incense.
Ancient Egyptians used to embalm the bodies of dead pharaohs or other noble people who managed to build a tomb during their lifetime. They believed that the body should be preserved in the best condition upon transition to another world, because the soul remains alive and it should live in a well preserved body, not subject to decay. Therefore, the burial of the body was accompanied by an abundance of aromatic substances, which is confirmed by the found remains of hardened aromatic extracts in the pyramids of the pharaohs.
In “The dawn of perfume” (2014) article, it is stated that most of the aromatic substances had to be imported into Egypt, because plants were scarce in the hot desiccating climate. For example, myrrh and frankincense were imported from Arabia, sandalwood and agar wood from India or from the island of Ceylon, whereas pine, olive oil, cinnamon and vanilla were imported from Libya, Arabia and the Middle East. Spices such as cinnamon, black pepper, nutmeg, and ginger root were traded by Arab sailors.
Ancient Egyptians kept their incense in special vases made of marble onyx, which was mined in Thebes. Their sizes and shapes were very diverse. For flowing essential oils, small alabaster vessels were used, and the rubbing substances was stored in small stone or ceramic bottles. Ancient Egyptian perfumes were a mixture of hardened fat and essential oils, they were placed on a wig at the beginning of the day. In the hot sunshine, the fat gradually melted, and the essential oils evaporated. Aromas in Egypt were also appreciated for having erotic properties. After all, aromas were used not only for the purpose of healing from illnesses or performing rituals, they were enjoyed and used for love and seduction. It is noteworthy that the desire to please was expensive. For example, a gram of myrrh in value was equal to the same amount of golden sand.
- “The dawn of perfume.” (2014). Retrieved from https://perfumesociety.org/history/the-dawn-of-perfume/
- Wilkinson, J. G. (1841). Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians. Volume 2. Murray.
